Pink Print

Dressing Making/ Pattern Make 

designers/ pattern makers

prom dress, Slip Dress, silk bias evening gown

Wrap Dress/Pants(4-way Stretch fabric), COWL NECK, Circle Skirt 

人體數據圖

服装打板軟體：CAD, CAM

where to put dart?

how to read dress pattern

設計師、打版師、樣衣師、

肩寬

背長

衣長

B 胸圍

W 腰圍

H 臀圍

款式｜低腰彈力喇叭裤(4p)：弧形腰(F/B two dot)、左/前側隱鍊、膝圍上提

褲長、腰圍、臀圍、膝圍、褲腳

fabric, thread 

彈性布(針織布 vs 平織布)、彈性線/拷克線/QQ線(萊卡)、彈性針、彈性壓布腳

彈性針: 勝家 2045(金頭11 or 14)

Opec or Shear 

stretch silk, 100% silk fabrics? chiffon, voile, Georgette, Organza, silk charmeuse, satin, Linen Viscose Fabric

light weigh crepe 

nature fabric: cotton, linen, silk, wool, cashmere, hemp 

fabric: nylon, acrylic, polyester, Spandex

Semi- : rayon, lyocell, 

Summer: cotton, rayon, chambray, knit, silk, linen

Winter: denim, Flannel

tulle, crinoliine, chiffon, satin, lace 

Drapable: chiffon or pressed muslin

Add Lining: Interfacing/Interlining( 2in shorter): Vieseline, Silk Crepe de Chine 

messuring tape, draping tape 

Curved(French) Ruler, Clear Ruler, L Square

rotary cutters/ fabric scissors, pattern notcher, pinking shears

tracing wheel/ tracing paper 

mannequin/ dress form

Iron, Iron matte, cutting mat 

fusible stay tape

Croquis Template, Fabric Swatches

SINGER 勝家 3333

RICCAR 立家 H30E: free arm? 自動穿線 

工業用拷克機/布邊機

電腦式 vs 機械式

金屬主體 vs 塑膠

滾動輪軸 vs 鐵片固定

全回轉不易絞線 vs 半回轉

french seam in a single step?

invisible zipper foot?

ykk invisible zipper
 

直線縫、鋸齒縫、布邊縫、盲縫、鈕扣縫

壓布腳: 萬能、拉鍊、開鈕扣、釘鈕釦、按針縫、布邊縫、密針縫

Straight Stich, Top Stich, Blind Stich, Edge Stich(prevent lining showup), Under Stitch, Ditch Stitch

silk needle, (all purpose)zipper foot, raw hem foot, heming foot, ruffler foot foot, Ditch Stitch foot  

Stich for Stretchy fabric: lighting bull stich, overcast stich, zigzag, serger 

Baby Hem 

Princess Seams

bust line, underbust line, waist line, hip line, Crotchal Size

side front, side back, center front, center back, 

lining layer 

banduae 

Needle: Stretch, Ballpoint, Jersey Knit 

Stitch Type: Stretch Stitch, Zigzag Stich, Overlock/Serger 

Presser feet: standard foot, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, and a blind hem foot, edging or overcasting foot

• Standard/Zigzag Foot: basic fancy stitches, satin stitch, zig zag stitches and overcasting stitches in addition to a straight stitch
• Straight Stitch Foot: chiffon
• Zipper Foot: 

Concealed or invisible zipper foot: invisible zip

• Overedge, Edging or Overcasting Foot: finish the raw edge

Overlocker: a type of sewing machine that sews seams, trims and neatens the fabric edges all at once

Without an overlocker, fabric edges can be neatened with zig-zag

other methods such as French or flat fell seams, binding, or the turned-under ‘clean finish’ method

(overlockers are known as sergers)

• Walking Foot

Stitch types: straight stitch, zig-zag, blind-hem and a buttonhole

Stitch length: 0-4mm

Stitch width: 0-5mm

1-step buttonhole

Alfa and Silver, Husqvarna Viking, Pfaff, Juki, Bernina

Singer, Janome and Brother

Clean-Finish Seams: finish the raw edges of your seams

• Serging or Zig Zag
• French Seam: priced silk, chiffon fabrics

Seam allowance: 5/8" or 1/2, the distance from the raw edge of the fabric to the seamline (or seam stitch line)

The length of seam allowance is based mainly on two things: The type of fabric and seam finishing technique used

lightweight fabrics: best with a shorter seam allowance length, not exceeding 1/2"

thick, heavyweight fabric: add larger seam allowance along its main, structural seams (3/4" to 1")

weave structure of the fabric: thicker(looser weave)

Structural Elements

Darts: triangle shaped intakes that are sewn into a garment to give it a 3-dimensional shape according to the body’s contour lines

components: two dart legs, a dart fold line (center line) and a vanishing point

two dart legs overlap perfectly on top of each other in the folding process

bias grain

Notches: triangular shaped wedges or plain slashes added at specified locations along the seam allowance edge.

Pattern Cutting Process

Draping: three-dimensionally prototype/initial mock-up

Pressed Muslin, Curved(French) Ruler, Clear Ruler, L Square

tracing wheel/ tracing paper 

Curved(French) Ruler: armhole, neckline 

Trace Muslin mark to Pattern Paper